Hobbies – Page 4 – Not Your Average Engineer

February 4, 2021December 12, 2021

Removing and reinstalling the crankcase cover and torque specs for the clutch bolts on a Honda Pacific Coast PC800

For those replacing the clutch or the clutch springs on a Honda Pacific Coast PC800, this information may help with the procedure to remove and reinstall the left crankcase cover, and with the torque specs for the bolts that hold the clutch plates in place. This information comes courtesy of Seth on the iPCRC.

Tips: Do mark the cover to indicate where odd bolt lengths go and any extra dowels, brackets, clips, … :

There are a couple of flanges that make pulling the crankcase cover easier.
Front:

Rear:

The little bolts that hold the clutch plates and springs in place are Class 8 M6x1 20mm flanged hex head screws, rather stronger than the generic hardware. There ought to be an underlined “8” on the head:

(It’s underlined so that you don’t read it upside down and confuse it with an “8”. Braille on a drive-up ATM keypad?)

The Page 1-14 specification for “6mm flange bolt (10mm head) and nut” is “12 (1.2, 9)” (N·m (kg-m, ft-lb)). That matches the explicit specification for the clutch bolts on ‘oldWing, my 1984 GL1200A, which uses the same size bolts.

FWIW, when removing the bolts from Winglet’s 1997 clutch I tried to measure the torque required to break the bolts loose. The results, in in-lb, were: 114, 126, 120, 126 and 144+.

When re-installing the crankcase cover, apply sealant to the pulse generator wiring gasket before installing the crankcase cover gasket:

I’ve been using Permatex Optimum Black Gasket Maker instead of HondaBond lately with good results.

August 24, 2020December 12, 2021

Fix for Honda Pacific Coast PC800 Choke Cable Failure

Here is a fix for the broken interface between the plastic threaded holder and the cable housing for your Honda Pacific Coast PC800 choke cable. You can use a bit of rubber fuel line or similar hose cut lengthwise and some hose clamps to repair the broken threaded holder well enough to keep riding for years to come.

Ben J. from the PC800 Facebook group came up with this great fix recently. The PC800 community has been working for a while to find a new supplier to produce these choke cables for our PC800s but the square pull end is hard to replicate. So until we figure out how to get new cables made, here is what Ben J. did to get his choke working again.

Ben J. says:

My solution to the common broken choke cable, Holds in place and remains flexible and easy to do just 1/4 in fuel line and two clamps!

Thanks Ben J.!

Here you can see the finished product. He found some tube that was the right size, cut it lengthwise, used a couple hose clamps, and is back in business!

Here’s a view of the hose going on.

Here’s a photo of the break on Ben J.’s bike. Some people have the threaded plastic part broken instead of the interface between the cable and the threaded plastic part. This method might work for that as well.

You can go to this link on Facebook to see a video of the finished product on Ben J.’s bike.

Other folks have had some luck using epoxy, plastic weld, or JB weld to bond the plastic threaded part together if that’s where your break is.

We’re hoping to find a replacement cable vendor who can recreate this cable assembly in the next few years. When that happens, I’ll update this post with a link to that.

For reference, the part numbers that cover this cable are:

17950-MR5-010ZA
17950-MR5-870
17950-MR5-870A
17950-MR5-870B

You can find the part on the PC800 parts microfiche for more details here.

June 21, 2020December 12, 2021

Fuse Block Diagram for a Honda Pacific Coast PC800

This is the diagram for the fuse block cover located behind the left engine air vent on a Honda Pacific Coast PC800 motorcycle. These little covers can sometimes go missing which makes it hard to figure out what fuse does what. The image below comes from the iPCRC.