Tamezret

Tamezret is a Berber village east of Matmata by twenty or so kilometers.  Originally, all of the houses were built into the mountain using all native material which made their presence nearly invisible until you were in among the houses.  To make the town even harder to spot, all of the chimneys were linked together and the smoke was sent all the way to the bottom of the hill which allowed the smoke to disperse at a lower elevation where it’d be less likely to be spotted.  As a last resort, every house was connected to a tunnel network that allowed residents to escape if attacked by a rival village or a marauding band of Europeans.

Our band of mostly Europeans was in Tamezret to visit a small museum built in a traditional Berber house.

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On the way to Tamezret. This land looks dead, but because of all the check dams, it can be fairly fruitful.

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We were welcomed by the local goat herd going to pasture. The guys watching the goats were going through the village calling the goats out from their houses. The goats would run out from their houses with their tails wagging, happy to be going out into the barren hills to look for a few blades of dead and dried grass. Each goat knows exactly where it lives and when it comes back in at the end of the day walks back to its house on its own. Otherwise, there would be no way to tell who owns what goat!

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A sign on one of the distribution power poles in town. In less harsh environments, these signs usually have a layer of black and red enamel to emphasize the death and destruction hovering a few meters above. I guess that the cost of wood outweighs the risks of children climbing on these open lattice power poles! I think I’ve only seen maybe ten wooden poles in the entire country. Wood is at a premium here – especially straight wood.

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The government has started installing these rock walls all over the hillsides as a place to plant eucalyptus trees for fuel wood. You might have been able to tell from the pictures that there are absolutely no trees that can be harvested for wood anywhere in the region. The closest forests are maybe six hundred kilometers to the north and those are mostly cork oak forests!

Matmata

Matmata, home to the underground troglodyte dwellings of Tunisia and so many Star Wars memories is quite the place. We drove there in the middle of the night, not wanting to pay the exorbitant rates of the hotels in Tataouine. We stayed in the Hotel Sidi Driss, the former set of Luke Skywalker’s uncle’s and aunt’s house in episode IV. The hotel is completely underground in pit dwellings. We slept in two rooms – one for girls and one for guys – beneath the ground. The rooms were actually caves dug into the earth and whitewashed.

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The men’s cave room.

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A very ill Jeff.

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The view outside of our cave room.

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In the middle of a Star Wars set. Decay has set in after several decades of neglect. It is expensive to try to keep sets designed to last for a few weeks of shooting in one piece after so many years. Especially in the harsh environment of the Tunisian south.

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Mike sure looks good in his makeshift blanket-towel.

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Looking down into one of the pits of the hotel. The rooms are built into the pit wall faces. In the winter the rooms stay warm and in the summer they stay cool from the insulation effects of the earth. One must hope that it doesn’t rain very often, however, or else the whole structure will sluff in on itself!

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At breakfast. Our government minders are in the background. It seems that the Tunisian government either thought a bunch of Americans in a bus were either a security threat to the nation or someone in the south was a threat to us. In each police jurisdiction, another set of G-men would trade out with the previous set to follow us around. Later on, this came in handy.

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Tozeur

After our trek across the chott, we ended up for the night at Tozeur. The next morning, we woke up to the wonderful world of one of Tunisia’s prettiest oases.

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Yes, that is a hand-made logo on the front of that truck. I’d say this truck isn’t going anywhere anytime soon.

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This is a Fennic Fox. It’s unwise to touch small furry creatures in Tunisia as, more often than not, they’ll bite you. Giovanna found this out the hard way. She ended up getting a precautionary series of rabies shots just to be on the safe side. Yes, the Fennic Fox is an endangered species, but, supposedly, the shop keeper had found this one as a baby sitting next to it’s dead mother in the desert. If the proper authorities found out about this, the fox would be taken away from him and he’d probably be arrested. As it is, it makes a good tourist attraction.

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We took a carriage ride through the oasis to see how a large desert oasis functions. This was my horse.

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We got to run our hands through the dates and pretend we were Scrooge McDuck with all of his gold.

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The local bicycle gang.

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I found a bull behind a butchers shop. We all know what happened to that poor fellow!

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These photos are for Karim to use in his Arabic classes.