Walking Around the Oasis

Coming into town all we saw was a cluster of low-lying buildings with solar panels on the roofs for power. The half-dozen streetlights in town were also solar powered. We pulled up and tried to figure out where things were. There wasn’t much of anything in town aside from one little store. We circled around, going back toward the tarmac to see if there was any indication of which direction we should go. Instead, we got stuck in the sand. At this point I noticed the only other car in town, a broken down 1950’s vintage Renault station wagon that was the mere carcass of an automobile. It had been thoroughly sandblasted. Through some ingenuity on my part, we gathered a bunch of discarded date palm stalks and managed to build a rudimentary sand ladder to get out of the sand. With only three of us pushing while Marie drove, there was no way we were getting it out of there without the help of the date stalks. We managed to get out of the sand and back to hard ground.

I pulled out my binoculars and looked around to see what I could see. I saw the oasis about a kilometer beyond the outpost of buildings that we had gotten stuck next to. We decided we’d head over that way and look for a hotel or something to get some food at. We pulled up on some hard ground, seeing tons of sand blocking our progression any further into the oasis. There was a nice road just beyond this particular sand drift that went through the middle of the oasis but we weren’t too comfortable about getting stuck in the middle of it. We left the car there and walked around the oasis looking for any signs of habitation. Finally, we ran into two local guys wearing camel rider outfits who were walking through the palmerie. We talked to them a bit and they told us that they could help us get through the sand. Back over at the car, we encountered another vehicle, a pickup truck, that told us how to drive through it without getting stuck. Marie decided to give it a try, knowing that the two camel drivers would help us get unstuck for a price. Marie gunned it and made it through the sand with impressive grace. On the other side we cheered her, talked with the one camel driver still left, and then continued on to the hotels near the source of the oasis water. The camel driver said that if we wanted camel rides that he’d do it for us for 10 dinars an hour if we showed up near the source at a specific time and waited for him to come over. He said that the boss of the camels would quote us 15 but he’d do it for 10 if we didn’t let anyone else know about the deal. We said we’d think about it.

We came to the encampment of hotels. Three in total next to the source. One was a five star luxury hotel complete with swimming pool, air conditioned tents complete with bathrooms, and an amazing view off of a watch tower constructed on the grounds. The other two were more modest tent affairs. We chose the first one we came to as the place was nice, the price was right, 25 dinars per person for full board, and the people were friendly. We moved into our tent, had an amazing couscous lunch complete with several types of meat and tea, and then walked over to the source to meet our camel driver.

He was at the source sitting with a few other Tunisian dudes in the shadows of one of the cafes. We nodded to him and went over to sit at another table a ways away to see if he’d come over. After about ten minutes, he didn’t come over so we left. We decided that he must not have wanted the business for some reason such as maybe his boss was there or whatever because he never got up and walked over. Too bad because it would have been fun to ride a camel. img_6086

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From Douz to Ksar Ghilane in a Peugeot 206

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We woke up in Douz to a cloudy sky and hazy air. This was strong indication to me of an impending sandstorm in Douz and most likely a sandstorm already underway down south in Ksar Ghilane. Maciej and I got up and got ready to go. Finally at around 8 we knocked on the girl’s door to find that they were still asleep. It took us a bit of effort to roust them from their sleep. Xiyun made a bunch of funny noises waking up, as always. Finally, we all were ready to go at around 830. We pulled out of Douz, after getting gas, at 9am.

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We ran into a large group of camels crossing the road. We jumped out to get some pictures. Marie ran off after them and I took a few pictures. It was pretty funny. It was at this point that I realized that Maciej is very photogenic and can always strike the right pose for a photo. It’s something about Europeans! They always are great photographic subjects!

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To get to the pipeline road, the road that we would follow to Ksar Ghilane, we had to backtrack about 60 km on the road to Matmata. This is a long, straight, and flat road with very little traffic meaning the perfect place for Xiyun and I to learn how to drive stick shift! I took a turn first, practicing on a nice flat and straight stretch. It took me a little bit of effort to remember to let up on the gas as I pushed the clutch in to shift to the next gear but I started getting the hang of it. Now maybe I’ll be able to drive the tractor better on my parents’ ranch. Next it was Xiyun’s turn. The other three of us in the car were really stressed out with her driving. After a short stint with her driving, we decided that she wasn’t going to drive anymore during the trip. I offered to drive if absolutely necessary but I said that I’d prefer one of the more experienced clutch drivers to drive. Marie said she’d drive all of the off-road sections as she had recent experience in the exact same car in Morocco.

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The road to Ksar Ghilane is a two lane gravel and sand affair. It’s called the pipeline road and stretches from the tip of Cap Bon all the way to the southern most point of Tunisia. It parallels a major gas pipeline from southern Algerian all the way up to Cap Bon where the pipeline dives underwater and crosses the sea to Sicily and then on to Italy. It’s a well maintained section of road as equipment continually has to move up and down it to repair and maintain the pipeline. Contrary to what people in Douz or Touzer or Djerba or Tataouine or any other tourist place will tell you, it’s actually a fine road that, for all but one or two places, can easily be traversed by a skilled driver in a Peugeot 206. This is a picture of a refinery in the middle of the desert that we passed on the pipeline road.

The farther we progressed south the oranger the sky and the land got. We stopped a couple of times for pee breaks and to let 4×4 convoys pass us. This is one of the main routes that the land rovers ply in Tunisia. Evidently it’s fun and exciting to drive this road for tourists down to Ksar Ghilane. The road would not be a challenge at all to drive in a land rover. Now if they were doing it every day in a Peugeot 206, then I’d be impressed.

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On our way out of Douz we had passed a military truck carrying about 10 soldiers on its way to somewhere. At one point when we were stopped for a break, this truck rumbled past us on its way south along the pipeline road. We jumped back in the car as quick as we could and chased off after it, passing it on a good portion of road. We figured that if we got stuck, they could help us get out. It was a good thing that we did that because five minutes later, we were stuck in the sand!

The military truck rumbled up behind us, saw our predicament, unloaded, and in a matter of minutes we had six Tunisian military men helping us push our car out of the sand. The leader of the detachment of soldiers drove our car out of the sand with amazing reckless grace. Marie asked them to stay behind us in case we got stuck again. They said we shouldn’t have any more problems and that there was only one particularly bad spot on the road and that this was it. Reassured, we continued on our way. It was very interesting that all of the soldiers appeared to be in their mid 40’s or older. Either the sands of the south make people age very prematurely or this was a patrol of the elders of the Tunisian military. It’s unfortunate that i didn’t get a picture of the Tunisian military but I’m sure that it would have been illegal somehow.

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About twenty minutes after being assisted by the Tunisian military, we came to the crossroads to Ksar Ghilane. Much to our surprise, the road was paved! Sixteen beautiful kilometers of two lane road all the way out to Ksar Ghilane. We stopped for a few pictures at the crossroads and the roared on to the oasis.

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Matmata in a Peugeot 206

We pulled into Matmata at around 530 or 6. We drove to the Starwars set and went inside to check it out. While inside, Marie negotiated with a guy to get a tour of a troglodyte house for five dinars for all of us. It was right next to the hotel. We trooped over and went inside. An old woman came in and snorted about a bit. We were being shown around by a younger guy. The house was interesting and appeared still lived in but things were a bit too clean to be occupied full time. The old woman wanted us to stay to have some food, for money of course, but we declined. She said in Arabic “No one ever wants to eat!” It all was a bit sad. We paid the old woman the five dinars for letting us see her house and left.

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Sunset over Matmata.

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Inside a typical Troglodyte home.

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Marie getting ready to be married.

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