Dougga with Xiyun in Spring

img_5703

img_5705

img_5756

img_5758

img_5759

img_5761

img_5763

img_5764

img_5765

img_5767

img_5768

They’re doing some reconstruction and stabilization work on the capitol.

img_5769

img_5771

img_5772

img_5774

img_5775

img_5776

img_5777

img_5779

img_5780

img_5782

Libyo-Punic funerary inscription.

img_5783

The base of a Dolem, a funerary monument, from Byzantine time.

img_5784

Human bones on display.

img_5785

img_5786

Our “Guide” and Xiyun. This guy latched onto us for a while. We paid him to go away.

img_5787

img_5788

img_5790

img_5791

img_5795

img_5797

img_5798

img_5800

We made our exit from the site in the early afternoon somewhere around 3 or so. We started walking down through Tunisian pastoral toward Dougga Nouvelle, about 3 kilometers away from the archeological site of Dougga. We had gotten about a kilometer down the road when four Tunisians passed us going up the hill in an old beat-up station wagon. They came back down a few minutes later, one person less. They offered to give us a ride to Dougga Nouvelle. We hopped in, me being in the middle to firewall Xiyun from the sketchy Tunisian guys. It was a fast ride down to the louage station in Dougga Nouvelle which consists of a bus stop cover and a patch of dirt next to the main road.

I asked around a bit and found out that we just had to wait next to the side of the road trying to flag down vehicles until one stopped that would take us on. We had several abortive attempts including us running after one louage that stopped then took off again. It was rather stupid that the guy would stop but decided not to let us in. Probably he decided that Xiyun was acting a little too spaztastic to be taken into his fine Maciejne. Finally, the Tunis to Le Kef bus came by, we hopped on it, and for about four dinars we made it to Le Kef. We decided to skip Bulla Regia as it was getting late and we were cold, wet, and tired.

On the bus ride Xiyun started getting carsick. She fell asleep to counter the effects. I joined her in dreamtime for about an hour as we plied the tarmac out to the east. In Le Kef we walked up the hill to the same hotel that I had stayed in the last time next to Place le Independence. We got a rate of 35 dinars which included breakfast. It wasn’t quite as good as what we had gotten before but the season is starting to pick up a bit and we weren’t in much of a position to negotiate. The rest of the hotels in town are either more expensive or don’t have any heat. It was getting very cold outside so we decided that it was best for us to get a warm room while we could.

We settled into our room, put on more warm clothes, and headed out to find some food. We ended up eating in the same restaurant that I had eaten in the last time. The little girl came over and took our order in French. I’m sure her mom, the proprietor, doesn’t speak any French. We had spaghetti, chicken, and some salad mischuia. It was all very yummy and warming. After that, we went down toward the Monoprix to try and buy some of the mud shampoo for Xiyun to try. Unfortunately, the Monoprix was already closed. On the way back up we bought four oranges and a couple of cups of Flan.

Back in our warm hotel room, we dug into the Flan cups for desert. They certainly weren’t of the quality of Mr. Flan, but they were still pretty good. We read our guidebooks about what we were going to do the next day, and got ready for bed.

Monastir with Xiyun

From Sfax, we traveled on to Monastir to visit the holy grail of Tunisian cinematography, as far as I’m concerned. The Ribat where scenes from Monty Python’s Life of Brian was filmed. Oh, and a bunch of religious shows and movies like Jesus of Nazareth were shot there. There’s also a little grave we visited. It’s the grave of the first president of Tunisia, Habib Bourguiba.

img_5622
That’s some good Ojja Merguez! We found a restaurant in the Medina at Monastir to eat at. We also had octopus salad and mechuea (unsure on the spelling of that).

img_5623
The Holy Grail of the Tunisian film industry, the Ribat at Monastir.

img_5625

img_5626
Yes, Xiyun is as big of a nerd as I am. She likes to read the travel books when she visits the sites.

img_5628
The grand mosque of Monastir.

img_5629

img_5630

img_5631

img_5632

img_5633

img_5635

This is a very typical Tunisian work scene. They are taking down the old street lights to put up fashionable new lamp posts to make the corniche more attractive for tourists. The forkliftish yellow vehicle is broken down. The tractor with the bucket won’t start and the dump truck, trying to pass around on the sidewalk, has stalled out. This has backed up traffic in both directions quite a good distance. The taxi is trying to get through a completely blocked road rather than having to go around the very long way. It took them about twenty minutes to get the truck moved so they could push start the tractor to get the lamp post out of the way and then tow the forklift off the road.

img_5636

img_5637

img_5638

img_5639
Xiyun likes cannons.

img_5640

img_5642

img_5643

img_5644

img_5645

img_5647

img_5649

img_5650

img_5651

img_5653

Deep in the bowels of the Ribat. What a place! It is full of twisting and turning tunnels and passages and rooms. A person could get lost in there and never find his or her way out!

img_5655

img_5656
We saw a very odd sight inside the Ribat’s main courtyard. Chairs. Thousands of them! Pouring forth from an unseen source.

img_5657

img_5659

img_5660
The Ribat is right in the flight path of incoming flights to the international airport in Monastir aptly named Habib Bourguiba International Airport.

img_5661

img_5662

img_5663
LOOK OUT BEHIND YOU! THE CHAIRS! THEY’RE COMING!

img_5664
Such a picture perfect grand mosque right by the sea.

img_5667
These chairs are insane!

img_5669

img_5670
The graveyard.

img_5672
Digging a fresh grave.

img_5673
The funeral procession.

img_5674

img_5675

img_5676

img_5677

Burying the dead.

img_5678

img_5680
The coffin must be reused as the guys carried it away to the road. Later on a van showed up and loaded the coffin in the back.

img_5681

img_5683

The CHAIRS!!!!

img_5684
On top of the watchtower.

img_5688
ROMANS GO HOME!

img_5689
The funerary complex of Habib Bourguiba.

img_5691

The main chamber.

img_5692

The big guy himself.

img_5693
A closeup of the mausoleum. There was an interesting display of Bourguiba’s personal items including his passport and national identity card. His ID number is 00000001.

img_5695

When we got back to Tunis I went over to Xiyun’s apartment where we had a lamb couscous. It was very yummy!

Sfax with Xiyun

Next stop was Sfax. We stayed in a hotel in the center of the Medina aptly named the Medina Hotel. It cost us a whole 8 dinars for the two of us! That’s pretty insanely cheap! Of course there wasn’t a toilet in the room and the beds weren’t all that great, but it was inexpensive. The next morning we woke up and explored the Medina seeing many of the locations where such movies as The English Patient were shot.

img_5594

img_5595

img_5596

img_5597

img_5600

Our hotel room had zero heat. Xiyun was freezing to death due to the lack of blankets in the room so I covered her with our coats. I slept in all of my clothes to stay warm.

img_5601

In the vegetable market.

img_5602

img_5604

The Forgers Funduk.

img_5605

img_5606

img_5608

img_5610

img_5615

img_5616

Bab Diwan.

img_5618

img_5619

img_5620

All in all, I was favorably impressed with Sfax. I don’t know why Tunisians don’t like Sfax so much, but it is really a lovely place.