To Chebika

Between Tozeur and Chebika we had to cross yet another chott. There were some interesting sites along the way.

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Camels do indeed cross the road unexpectedly.

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These reed and palm frond fences are used throughout the south of the country to contain the drifting sands. During the time of French rule, the desert advanced more than 200 kilometers. Since they left back in the 50’s, the Tunisians have beat the desert back using these fences, among other things, all 200 kilometers plus some.

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We encountered a herd of camels watering at a shallow pond left behind by the rain. All around the ground was covered with dead and dieing locust. The last couple of years have been bad locust years in this part of Africa. I never understood just what locust were until I saw some up close and personal. I wish I had gotten a few pictures because they just can’t be described.

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Douz

Douz is one of the many towns that claims the status of gateway to the Sahara. It is certainly the start of the Sahara, but I think some smaller villages that are a bit farther out into the dunes would be better contenders for gateway to the Sahara. In spite of this, Douz is a very relaxed town. It’s one of those places a person can hang out for a week without any effort. Everyone is easy going and friendly. I paid it several visits during my time in Tunisia.
We pulled into Douz an hour before sunset. First stop was at the local cultural museum which details nomadic and oasis life. After leaving there, we went to the main camel rental station where Karim acquired a fleet of camels for us to ride into the dunes. We jumped on and headed out into the sand.

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The camels lined up and ready to go in the big camel parking lot.

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Karim inspected the merchandise and the merchants. One must be careful when choosing a camel. Otherwise, a nasty case of camel fleas might result!

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Loaded up and ready to go.

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Notice the two ultralight parachute contraptions in the sky. Those along with the dune buggies, dirt bikes, and other such noisy motorized contraptions created quite the racket on the sand.

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Karim taking a pot shot with his lion stick at the parachute contraptions. He did not appreciate them breaking the silence of the desert.

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There were people scattered and spread out throughout the dunes. These two tourists wandered by on their way to somewhere.

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One of the horsemen. These guys aren’t part of a syndicate that regulates their actions like the camel drivers are. Instead, they operate on their own which provides for quite an interesting time. The guide books and Karim explicitly warned us about these guys. The dudes are crazy! A tourist can pay one to take them on a ride on the horse. These are Arabian horses of some sort and they tear off across the dunes like none other. That’s dangerous enough. Then add to it that some of these horse riders aren’t always the most “hands off” when it comes to the female tourists.

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The horsemen want money for pictures. I had to take these photos surreptitiously which accounts for the off-kilter nature of the photos.

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Before Karim had given us the warning, Giovanna negotiated for a ride with one of the horsemen. A big fight followed with Karim waving his lion stick about and the horsemen yelling. Karim made a phone call and in two minutes, the secret police were out in force. They herded off the horsemen with threats of arrest. The police told Karim that earlier in the day a few horsemen had been hauled off to jail for being inappropriate with a few female tourists! This is certainly not the norm in Tunisia, but just as with anywhere in the world, it can happen.

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Another desert transportation option. As the sun sunk below the horizon, all forms of motorized and quadruped transport streamed in from the sand dunes.

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We ate dinner at a local restaurant in Douz before heading out of town long after sundown. We had many kilometers to go before bed that night.

Chott Jerid

The Chotts of Tunisia are large inland salt flats that were once large shallow lakes but are now dried up. Periodically, they fill with water from winter rains. This night was one of those periods. It had rained in the desert a few days earlier and the whole chott was full of water. The road across is 94 kilometers long with only one building the whole way at a wide spot in the road where an enterprising Tunisian set up a roadside stand to sell pieces of desert rose to tourists. It was maybe 10pm when we stopped. The moon was nearly full, the Chott was full of water, and we couldn’t see a single light anywhere. It would be a very romantic place to pass the night.

Supposedly, the Chotts of Tunisia are actually below sea level. Possibly up to 20 or 30 meters below sea level. Back in the 1800’s, the French attempted to build a canal into the Chotts to flood them and give a place for the French fleet to hide so they could attack the British fleet and rule the Mediterranean. Fortunately for Tunisia’s Digla Date production, this never happened. The chief engineer on the project died before they had even begun digging. The plan was later revisited in the 1960’s, this time by American interests under the guise of the Plowshare Program, a front setup by the American Atomic Energy Commission. They proposed to build the canal by means of controlled nuclear explosion. Basically, they wanted to detonate a bunch of atomic bombs across Tunisia to create a canal. Needless to say, it never happened. It is interesting, however, that the Tunisians never speak about the elevation of the Chott. I think that many people are afraid that someone will once again try to build a canal into the Chott and once again flood them with ocean water. Evidence of the wreck of a Roman galleon on the north shore of the Chott has long been held up to show that yes, indeed, these were once connected to the sea. Today though they only produce mirages.

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On the bus driving through the emptiness of the chott.

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The building in the middle of the chott. No one was around to sell us desert rose on that night.

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Getting ready to pull away into the night.